Ulmus parvifolia: Chinese Elm
YR: 2004
Deciduous outdoors
R250
Indoor/Outdoor
Chinese elms are very hardy and can grow happily indoors or out. The like full sun and can handle the cold. However during the hottest months of summer they prefer semi-shade. If they are kept indoors, it is necessary to have them near a window with plenty of light. Indoors Chinese Elms can remain evergreen but are deciduous outside.
Watering
Maintain soil moist in summer but not saturated and water slightly less in the winter allowing soil to dry slightly on the surface between watering.
Re-Potting
Re-pot every two to three years in early spring. Be careful as the roots are very soft and are easily damaged. When trimming make sure to use sharp tools in order not to squash the roots and ensure a nice clean cut.
Training
A Chinese elm can become very ‘messy’, make sure to keep all the new growth pinched back to two leave. Responds well to trimming in mid-summer with tons of new shoots. Wiring is a good way to train younger trees but older branches can be quite brittle. With all the vigorous growth, the easiest way to train a Chinese elm is to pinch out the new growth before a leaf which is pointing in the direction you want the branch to go.
Cotoneaster
YR: 2007
Flowering/ Berries
R100
Outdoor
Cotoneasters are mostly landscape plants and they will survive in a great part of sunlight. In the winter the roots needs to be protected from severe freezing. Bring indoors when bad frost has been forecasted. A cotoneaster may be kept indoors all year round as long as it’s exposed to a lot of sunlight. In cold climates the cotoneaster is deciduous and in warmer climates they can be evergreen.
Re-potting
Every one to two years the bonsai should be re-potted. Just remember that these plants don’t like to have bare roots. This is one of the best plants to use for air layering.
Watering
Cotoneasters don’t like to be very wet, this can cause root rot. However a Cotoneaster does not like its roots to dry out. In summer water when the soil appears to be dry on the surface and in winter try keep the soil slightly less moist.
Training
Cotoneasters throw out growth vigorously so unwanted shoots must be cut off. Wiring can be done but the respond best to constant trimming. Cut back shoots to two or three leave encouraging dense layers in a well structured network.
Olea europaea: Wild Olive
YR: 2002
Evergreen/ Indigenous
R350
Outdoors
Wild Olives often mistaken for the Olive tree are extremely hardy. They can handle drought and frost. They like full sun but do well in semi-shade.
Watering
They can handle dry soil but flourish with moist soil in summer, water less in the winter months.
Re-Potting
Can be potted any time of the year in a slightly deeper pot. Every couple of years older trees will need to be re-potted.
Training
They respond well to wiring. Constant pruning and pinching back to two leaves is a good idea creating very dense layers and helps to drastically reduce the leaf size.
nata156 asked: I'm very new to Bonsai, I got a Green Mound Juniper for Christmas. So far I've watered my bonsai everyday in the evening. It now has moss covering the soil. It gets plenty of sunlight in my room and there is new growth. Any tips in taking care of it? Am I doing something wrong? Thank you.
It sounds like you are doing everything right to me, if it has plenty of sunlight and moss growing (enough water) then I’m sure the plant is green and healthy :) Junipers prefer to be kept outside and can handle being a little dry. Mist the plant every now and again, this will help with keeping a few diseases away which don’t like being wet, specifically a white bug that hides behind the needles and can completely kill the plant. But I’m sure if you have had it for a while, you won’t have any problems.
areyouinn asked: i like u and the work you do :) what was the very first tree you worked on?
Thank You, I appreciate your opinion. To be perfectly honest I cannot remember, I will ask my mom if she knows. I started with the odd few plants when I will still small. I learnt the hard way killing plants. As time went by I acquired a few more and killed them too, I would then give up for a year or two and then tried again. At the time I was too young to understand what these plants need, all I knew was that I had a love for Bonsai’s. As I got older I started reading a few books and actually started to understand what they were all about. I hope you keep reading my blog :) And thank you once again.
Ficus natalensis: Natal Fig
YR: 1996
Indoor/ Indigenous
SOLD
Indoor
The Natal Fig must be indoors through winter in order to protect from frost, make sure it has sufficient light all year round. It can be taken outside in summer and can handle full sun, however it needs to be slowly introduced to the sun in order it to be acclimatized.
Watering
The ficus natalensis enjoys a moist environment, in summer keep the soil moist and mist the plant regularly. If in the sun, less misting is required as this can cause the leaves to burn. During the winter months, let the soil dry on the surface before next watering to ensure that it does not get waterlogged.
Re-Potting
Re-pot every three years after the roots have filled the pots. Make sure that the soil used is well drained.
Training
Wiring of older plants can prove to be very difficult. The best way to train them is by pruning, allowing the next shoot to grow in the direction you want.
Carved Privet
Ligustrum sinense: Chinese privet
Tree YR: 1995
Bonsai YR: 2011
NOT FOR SALE
I decided I wanted to give the carving technique a try so I found someone wanting rid of a few plants, I picked out this privet with some much needed attention.
“Where to start?” is the big question. Well I had no idea so I decided to choose a main trunk and remove the secondary one and the other small one sticking up to the side. To do this I used a rotary cutting disc on a Dremel. Below is a picture of the Dremel I used and the cutting bits I needed. The cutting disc is on the left of the picture.
Once I had cut of the secondary stump, I started to do some shaping. I got a drill with a fairly large drill bit and drilled right through the stump. I had no idea what I was doing, all I knew was there must be some beauty within this beast. A Bonsai needs good taper in the trunk, starting fat at the base and thinning out towards the top. While cutting I had this in mind trying to cut and dig away in places to get a decent taper. Looking at the pictures below you will see that the taper is starting to show. After some serious chopping and cutting I got to this point.
Now all this cutting looks very artificial so I needed to try make it look aged. Using the Dremel bit second from the right I made grooves in the wood making it look grainy but it was very hard lined, so I used the wire brush to smooth off all the artificial lines leaving me with this effect. A very natural and aged look. This was quite a time consuming process where patients is needed.
There are a few things with this carving that I am not happy with and still have not changed but this plant had a huge shock so it needed to rest and recover before anymore work is to be done on it. So now the next step was to do some wiring and try develop some sort of branch structure. By accident I broke off a branch that I really wanted but it happens as it was in the totally wrong place. After wiring I needed to preserve the wood so I used lime sulphur. I painted this on to all the fresh wood with a paint brush. Below is a picture of the wired plant with the lime sulphur still wet.
The lime sulphur will dry white and preserve the wood, this needs to be redone on the odd occasion. After the lime sulphur had dries I painted a wood stain inside the holes creating a shadow effect with depth. Below are picture of the newly created Bonsai from a stump after two days work.
I then left the privet in this pot for a couple of weeks to see if it was okay. It was! So I decided it deserved a pot. Below are a couple of pictures in it’s well deserved Bonsai pot.
The final product. Now it’s just a matter of time to let the plant develop and fill out. Already the plant has started throwing out new growth everywhere meaning this plant handled the violent approach well. Personally I am pleased with the outcome and I will add in pictures once all the new growth has come out and the plant has filled up a bit. I was very limited with branches to work with as I cut away half the tree removing half the new shoots. This said, the tree does have a few nice branches and over a few years will become a amazing Bonsai.
White Stinkwood
YR: 1999
Indigenous
SOLD
General
A White Stinkwood, the indigenous variety of the Chinese Hackberry but with the same requirements. The difference between the two is that the Chinese Hackberry has smooth leaves where as the stinkwood has a very furry leaf. Both species are very easy to maintain.
Outdoor
A Stinkwood is extremely hardy and can be kept on a balcony sheltered from the wind. It can be brought inside but needs to be kept by a sunny window. Outside the tree can be provided with as much sun as you desire as long as the soil is kept moist.
Watering
Keep soil evenly moist at all times including summer and winter. Over watering can also be a problem with the Chinese Hackberry so try find a balance.
Re-Potting
Re-pot every one to two years and keep in the shade for about two weeks after re-potting to ensure the plant is happy (this is good practice when re-potting any Bonsai).
Training
Pinch out the tips of new growth when two leaves have formed, doing this help dramatically with the leaf reduction.
Acer palmatum: Japanese Maple
YR: 2004
Deciduous with lovely colours
R150
Outdoor
Japanese Maples must be kept outdoors, they like full sun but when it gets extremely hot, they prefer prefer semi-shade. They do not tolerate frost so it is a good idea to protect them in the very cold months. Japanese Maples do not like strong winds, the wind tends to scorch the leaves. Maples perform best in semi shade with ample protection from cold winds.
Watering
Do not allow the soil to dry out with a Japanese Maple, keep soil moist but not saturated. Slightly acidic water is beneficial, you can mix a teaspoon of vinegar into a watering can for once a year watering.
Re-Potting
Re-pot every one to three years when buds start to form in early spring.
Training
Trimming in mid-summer encourages plenty of new growth shooting from all internodes. For “two seasons” growth, defoliate then plant in mid summer allowing the whole tree to develop new leave, only do this to healthy trees. Younger shoots can be wired but older branches tend to be brittle and snap at the bases.
Ulmus parvifolia: Chinese Elm
YR: 2006
Deciduous outdoors
R140
Indoor/Outdoor
Chinese elms are very hardy and can grow happily indoors or out. The like full sun and can handle the cold. However during the hottest months of summer they prefer semi-shade. If they are kept indoors, it is necessary to have them near a window with plenty of light. Indoors Chinese Elms can remain evergreen but are deciduous outside.
Watering
Maintain soil moist in summer but not saturated and water slightly less in the winter allowing soil to dry slightly on the surface between watering.
Re-Potting
Re-pot every two to three years in early spring. Be careful as the roots are very soft and are easily damaged. When trimming make sure to use sharp tools in order not to squash the roots and ensure a nice clean cut.
Training
A Chinese elm can become very ‘messy’, make sure to keep all the new growth pinched back to two leave. Responds well to trimming in mid-summer with tons of new shoots. Wiring is a good way to train younger trees but older branches can be quite brittle. With all the vigorous growth, the easiest way to train a Chinese elm is to pinch out the new growth before a leaf which is pointing in the direction you want the branch to go.
Malus spp. : Crab Apple
YR: 1986
Flowering/ Fruit
NOT FOR SALE
Outdoor
Crab apples thrive in full sun and perform badly in shade. They are extremely hardy. Crab apples can handle frost but younger trees may need to be protected from severe freezing.
Watering
Keep soil wet by watering well in summer. When fruiting make sure the soil does not dry out as they use a lot of water to form. In winter, water less and keep soil moist. Foliage and flowers enjoy regular misting.
Re-Potting
Re-pot every two to three years in Autumn to allow for good flowering in spring. Use a deep pot to ensure a adequate supply of water for the tree.
Training
Prune branches after flowering to ensure the buds are not been cut off and allow for good buds for the following season to develop. Older branches can be quite tough and training by trimming will be easier. Looking at the pictures above. I am using the weight technique making sure I do not break any branches of this old tree. For weights use stainless steel bolts so that no rust occurs which will drip on the soil causing other complications.
Punica granatum var. nana: Miniature Pomegranate
YR: 2004
Flowers then fruit (pomegranates)
R200
Indoor/Outdoor
Pomegranates can be grown indoors or out. If they are inside, make sure they have plenty of light near a window. Pomegranate do not however like the cold, keep protected from frost. They tend to be semi-deciduous if kept outside but when kept indoors they can remain evergreen depending on the temperature of that particular winter.
Watering
Pomegranates tend to be quite thirst but need well drained soil. Water well in summer, slightly reduce water amounts in winter when losing a few leaves. While fruiting the plant will need a little more water in order for the fruits to swell.
Re-Potting
Remember a pomegranate needs good drainage so have about 50% gravel with 50% potting soil. Plants should be re-potted every two to three years. Re-pot in early spring just as all the new buds start to form.
Training
Pomegranates seem to feel very flexible when wiring but seem to break unexpectedly. However they do shape well with wiring. Pomegranates are great for beginners because they grow vigorously allowing continuous trimming and pinching out of new shoots.
Celtis sinensis: Chinese Hackberry
YR: 1996
Deciduous
R700
Outdoor
A Chinese Hackberry is extremely hardy and can be kept on a balcony sheltered from the wind. It can be brought inside but needs to be kept by a sunny window. Outside the tree can be provided with as much sun as you desire as long as the soil is kept moist.
Watering
Keep soil evenly moist at all times including summer and winter. Over watering can also be a problem with the Chinese Hackberry so try find a balance.
Re-Potting
Re-pot every one to two years and keep in the shade for about two weeks after re-potting to ensure the plant is happy (this is good practice when re-potting any Bonsai).
Training
Pinch out the tips of new growth when two leaves have formed, doing this help dramatically with the leaf reduction.
About me
Bonsai's are an addiction and I am addicted. I think Bonsai's are an amazing hobby however very expensive. I am a student in Johannesburg, South Africa and in order to pay for my hobby, I have started to sell a few plants. Everyone asks for pictures and prices so I have decided to start this blog so anyone can have a look for indication purposes. I can't guarantee that all these exact plants will be available but I will probably have similar plants in stock. Not all my plants are on this blog as it is so hard to take detailed pictures of every single plant but I will be trying my best.
